Pavé creations impressed by flora, fauna and flights of creativeness are a specialty of Begum Kiroglu, founder and artistic director of the posh firm Begum Khan Mucevher A.S.
A latest instance can be the Bee Bottle by Begum Khan, a 13-piece limited-edition bottle for the Guerlain perfume Le Songe de la Reine. The particular flacon, launched at $10,000 every in Might 2021, featured Ms. Kiroglu’s bee and flowers in gold-plated bronze and 6,500 pavé zirconia gems.
“She was the best designer for this glorious mission for Guerlain, so female, together with her Ottoman cultural heritage, with a really Parisian ‘je ne sais quoi’ model,” stated Ann Caroline Prazan, head of artwork, tradition and heritage on the French magnificence home. “This piece represents a powerful image between the encounter of Begum’s Ottoman heritage and Guerlain’s French legacy. ”
Ms. Kiroglu, 36, additionally designs males’s and ladies’s jewellery and night luggage that then are handcrafted in small ateliers in Istanbul, the place she grew up and lives (when she will not be in Paris). In a latest interview, she talked about what influences her work, the years she spent finding out in China and the way she balances design with affordability (her costs vary from $200 to $12,000). The dialog has been edited and condensed.
Your academic background is uncommon. The place did you research?
I went to Italian faculties in Istanbul as a result of my dad and mom wished me to have a multicultural background. Then, I studied enterprise administration at Koc College in Istanbul and administration for vogue and design corporations at Bocconi College in Milan. I had a ardour for orientalism so I moved to Shanghai and I accomplished my grasp’s in Chinese language tradition.
How and why and the place did you begin designing jewellery?
About 10 years in the past I wished a present for my brother who was getting married. I appeared for a pair of cuff hyperlinks that have been timeless and in addition enjoyable as a result of they’d be for a person in his 30s. The cuff hyperlinks I favored have been both overpriced or too playful to be a marriage reward. I made a decision to make them myself and that is how the journey began.
I met the artisans and began going to the workshops. I actually cherished the entire course of. I began making jewellery for myself, and many individuals wished to purchase it. I had a pop-up store with my first designs, the DNA items of the model: the turtle with the ball earrings, the scarab ear cuff, the enduring evil eye night bag. They’re nonetheless within the assortment as a result of all of our designs are evergreen.
Did your loved ones affect your option to develop into a jewellery designer?
My household taught me aesthetics. Due to them, I used to be raised in a beautified world. Even the cups whereas we have been having a easy Turkish tea, they have been lovely and creative. As a toddler, they’d drag me to public sale homes, to flea markets. We began to journey to Asia once I was very younger.
Your jewellery could be very recognizable. How do you outline your model?
I wish to make folks joyful and have enjoyable with my jewellery, and on the identical time to really feel refined and stylish. I discover my jewellery just like make-up or excessive heels. If you stroll right into a room, you’re feeling assured.
It must be immediately recognizable, like whenever you see a Prada bag, that it’s a Prada bag or whenever you see Dolce & Gabbana flowers, then it’s a Dolce & Gabbana sample. It’s actually necessary for a model to have a persona. When somebody sees a bit, they need to say, “That have to be Begum Khan.”
What evokes you?
Ottoman Empire, Ottoman and Turkish artwork and tradition — the place I used to be born and raised — and Chinese language artwork and tradition — the place I lived for six years — and many various areas, just like the Far East and India, affect my designs.
You say you attempt to preserve your costs reasonably priced. How do you do this?
Design comes first, and selecting the perfect supplies and finest craftsmanship comes second. Once I’m actually glad with the ultimate design, then I select the fabric. So if it’s a tiny little pinky ring, I exploit diamonds. If it’s an enormous magnolia crown with 8,000 gems on it, then I exploit zirconia. If it’s a a lot smaller bracelet, then I exploit vermeil, gems and crystals.
Who’s your primary buyer?
They’re all ages however what they’ve in widespread is internationalism. They prefer to journey, they like to find new issues. They’re robust, unbiased ladies who usually are not afraid of who they’re and they’re proud to indicate it reasonably than attempting to be the identical with everybody else. Queen Máxima of Holland, Katy Perry and Marie-Chantal, crown princess of Greece, are clients.